Dark Sky Tourism: It’s time to look up

Wallace Monument Stirling

There are prime dark sky spots to be found in Stirlingshire and Perthshire

The clocks have gone back one hour, and suddenly we seem plunged into longer, darker nights. While some of us may be contemplating carbs and hibernation during the winter months, there’s a whole new breed of tourist who loves this time of year more than any other, and they are in search of darkness.

Dark sky tourism is, as yet, not a huge industry but it’s on the up. It owes its growth to a number of factors – the 2009 International Year of Astronomy, the success of the BBC’s real-time astronomy programme BBC Stargazing Live (whose first screening left Amazon sold out of telescopes), and some unforgettable moments in the skies in recent years, not least the sightings of the aurora borealis across Britain in January 2014. The best thing about becoming a Dark Sky tourist? Well, as long as you have a warm coat and a bed for the night, the rest is free, and Scotland is the best place to get away from light pollution.

Scotland is largely free of the light pollution found in major cities like London

Scotland is largely free of the light pollution found in major cities like London

Galloway Forest Park became the UK’s first Dark Sky Park in 2009, but you needn’t travel there to see the stars in their full glory. Any open ground away from city lights and tall buildings will afford a great view of the heavens, and that’s just the kind of landscape you can easily find within minutes of Stirling and Perthshire. Don’t have a telescope? That’s no problem either; in fact, astronomers recommend a ‘whole sky’ view for beginners until they find their way around the stars. Just pick your spot, look up, and let your eyes adjust for 15 minutes. You’ll be amazed at just how many stars there are above, and if you can make out that distinctive blur of the Milky Way, you’ve got yourself a prime Dark Sky spot.

The northern lights, or aurora borealis

The northern lights, or aurora borealis

So if you are planning a late autumn or winter break in Stirling or Perth, how about planning on some stargazing too? You can pick up a star map for next to nothing, you can check for any forecast aurora sightings,  or download a stargazing calendar to bring with you from the BBC Stargazing web page. There are some exciting things to watch out for in November too: The last quarter moon is particularly close to Jupiter, and will be easy to spot rising from the east just after midnight on the 13th November. Also the Leonid Meteor shower will peak on 17th and 18th of November. You can also check Stirling Astronomical Society for events over the winter, and make a date for the Edinburgh Royal Observatory’s ‘A Comet’s Tale’ on 16 November. There’s lots happening in the heavens as the nights lengthen. So, instead of hibernating this winter, why not get outside, and look up?

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Stirling’s Spookier Side

Stirling Paranormal Festival

Stirling has a darker side to explore this Halloween

If you like to be spooked when Halloween comes around, then you’ll love Stirling. With its turbulent history and dark cobbled streets, the City has more than its share of macabre tales, ghost stories and unexplained events. For those who enjoy the thrill of the shadows, then Stirling is the place to be this Halloween.

The Scottish Paranormal Festival runs from 30 October to 2 November in possibly the most haunting venue in Scotland – the City of Stirling. The festival promises to deliver everything you want to know about the unexplained and other-worldly with experts speaking on everything from ghostly photographs to poltergheists, from UFOs to ‘Things that go bump in the mind’. There’s a film festival for both adults and children, showing movies that range from the terrifying ‘The Shining’ to gentler, kids’ choices like ‘Paranorman’ and ‘Frankenweenie’. Children can also take part in Halloween storytelling, dress up and drama, with Tapsalteerie Theatre Scotland, who promise to ‘tip-toe safely with you through some some spoofily spooky moments and confidently out the other side’. More robust Halloween fans will enjoy the interactive events for adults. The popular night vigils are already sold out, but tickets still remain for the Ghost Hunters Round Table and Workshop, as well as the Bonnybridge Skywatch. When you’ve had your fill of terror, then it’s time to dig out your Halloweem costume and head to the Caledonian Vampyre Ball on Friday 31st, for supernatural rock music, ceilidh dancing, and a demonic DJ! For information on all events, venues and ticket prices, see http://www.paranormalscotland.com/

Stirling Castle has many ghostly tales to tell

Stirling Ghost Walks have tales to tell about Stirling Castle and the Old Town

Stirling Ghost Walks promise ‘fear, fun and frights for all the family’ for those who want to explore the haunted nooks and crannies of Stirling itself. Costumed actors bring comedy, drama and storytelling together to breathe life into Stirling’s ancient Old Town and its grisly past. Meet the City’s many ghosts, from Blind Alick Lyon to the Black Lady, spirits in what was once described as ‘the most densely populated supernatural square mile in all of Scotland’. The ghost walks will appeal to all ages, and take in many of Stirling’s most historic sites, from John Cowane’s Hospital (home to Sprinkle Happiness by daylight) to the Beheading Stone, Argyll’s Lodging and Stirling Castle.  For details and tickets, see: http://www.stirlingghostwalk.com/

Nicky-Tam's Bar and Bothy Stirling, possibly the most haunted pub in Stirling

Nicky-Tam’s Bar and Bothy Stirling, possibly the most haunted pub in Stirling

Nicky-Tam’s Bar and Bothy is not only the second-oldest pub in Stirling, it claims to be the most haunted. Renovations in 1999 were fraught with reports of apparitions and unsettling events after a photograph of what looked like a clergyman was discovered, walled into the fabric of the building. Clairvoyants visited the site three times over 1999 and 2000, and claimed that there were a number of spirits present in the building; some benign, and one more aggressive presence, perhaps the clergyman in the photo. While the events have not been fully explained, Nicky-Tams still attracts both ghost-hunters and those simply looking for home-cooked food, good beer, and great live events. If you’re thirsty on your way up to Stirling Castle – stop by for a drink – you might just spot a ghost too. For more information, see: http://www.nickytams.com/

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Road Trips: Not just for Route 66

Stunning vistas on the road in Scotland

Road trips are not just for Route 66

If you are planning a holiday to Scotland, are short on time, but still want to see as much as you can, the answer might just be a road trip. Road trips aren’t just about long, straight, American highways, or car journeys from hell to cries of ‘are we there yet?’ Scotland is the perfect place to drive, because, quite simply, it isn’t huge, so you can see quite a lot of this beautiful country in a short time. And because you don’t need to cover huge expanses point to point, and the passing landscape is stunning, you and your fellow travellers are likely to have a better time. Here are our suggestions for a successful road trip, and one route for you too.

Start and finish rested: It’s good to plan a road trip from a comfortable base, like one of our properties, for example! Rather than pick up your hire car from the airport and hit the road, it’s worth your while starting rested, after a night or two in a good bed. It helps also to plan the same for the end of your holiday too. Hand back the hire car and give yourself at least a day to wind down from driving and get your cases back in order before the flight or journey home.

Single track roads and obstacles like cattle grids can slow journey times

Applecross Peninsula, Wester Ross. Single track roads and obstacles like cattle grids can slow journey times

Plan your route: Start from somewhere central if you can (we’d suggest Stirling, of course) so that you have a number of options, and can change plans if you need to.  To make an educated guess about journey times, note the class of roads you plan to drive on. In Scotland, ‘A-roads’ provide efficient two-way driving, where you can get up to speeds of 60 miles/96 km per hour. ‘B-roads’, on the other hand, may offer no more than a single track with passing places at points, you may encounter livestock on the road, and winding roads can double or triple expected journey times.

Break up your journey: Build in time to pull off the road for something to eat, loo breaks, viewpoints and spontaneity. Planning your journey around good places to stop for lunch, and allowing time for an unplanned ‘let’s stop here a minute’ will be far more rewarding than pushing on to a must-see tourist spot – and you are more likely to get a better feel for Scotland too.

Pitlochry aerial view

Pitlochry aerial view

Pitlochry to Aberfeldy (Perthshire, B8019/B846/A827): Here’s one suggestion for a manageable and rewarding road trip, as described by matadornetwork.com.Drive west from Pitlochry to Loch Tummel. Stop at Queens View to take in the view favoured by Queen Victoria. At Tummel Bridge, continue west to Loch Rannoch and on to Rannoch Station, the most remote railway station in the UK. Return along the unmarked road on the south side of the loch, then turn right over the hill. Take a detour right to Fortingall and down to Fearnan on the banks of Loch Tay. Turn left along the loch to Kenmore at its head, then on to Aberfeldy following the banks of the River Tay, Scotland’s most famous salmon river.

For more information on road trips in Scotland, see:

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Day trips to beautiful bridges

Stirling Bridge, spanning the River Forth

Stirling Bridge, spanning the River Forth

From the Golden Gate to Madison County, there is something undeniably romantic about bridges – spanning waterways, bringing people together, forming elegant yet purposeful arcs across our landscapes. Any visit to Stirling would be incomplete without a visit to Stirling Bridge, a historic landmark in the story of William Wallace, but there are many other bridges of note for visitors looking for a day trip to remember. Here are a handful close to Stirling.

Stirling Bridge: Stirling Bridge played a central role in the victory of William Wallace over the combined English forces of John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey, and Hugh de Cressingham, in 1297. In a bold piece of warcraft, and despite being outnumbered, the young William Wallace held fast to the north (around the Abbey Craig, where the Wallace Monument now stands) until a large chunk of the English forces had crossed the River Forth using the narrow bridge. Bearing down from the north, the Scottish forces then fell upon their stranded opponents – effectively cutting them off from reinforcements behind – and winning the battle. The bridge you see now is not the original: this one was built in the 14th century, but lies upon (or very close to) the site of its antecedent, whose remnants still lie beneath the waters of the Forth. The present bridge is easily accessible by foot from Stirling city centre, and makes a thought-provoking visit from which to note the vantage points afforded by the Abbey Craig, used by Wallace in planning attack, as well as the defensive position of Stirling Castle. Visit the bridge, and the Wallace Monument, to fill one perfect day out.

The Forth Road Bridge, Scotland's 'Golden Gate'

The Forth Road Bridge, Scotland’s ‘Golden Gate’

The Forth Road Bridge: As striking as the Golden Gate, and with much more grace, the Forth Road Bridge recently celebrated its 50th birthday with a spectacular festival in September. The elegant suspension bridge spans the Firth of Forth, and was opened in 1964 to connect Edinburgh (via South Queensferry) to Fife, thereby replacing an ageing ferry service which formerly carried out the task. The bridge shares the waters of the Forth with its older counterpart, the Forth Rail bridge, which was completed in 1890 and, though more workmanlike in design, has its own charm for those seeking a striking photo. Underneath the shadow of the bridges, South Queensferry (just 29 miles from Stirling) is worth a day trip in itself for a pub lunch, a walk round its cobbled streets, and an ice cream with great sea views. Or make a day of it by taking one of the popular cruises that leave from the jetty to sail under the bridges and onward to Inchcolm Island and Abbey. Couples can even leave a lasting memento of their Scottish trip by having their names engraved on a padlock which can be locked, forever, onto the parapet of the Forth Road Bridge. Details here: http://www.forthbridgesfestival.com/events/mark-your-spot-on-the-forth-road-bridge/

The Avon Aqueduct, near Linlithgow, West Lothian

The Avon Aqueduct, near Linlithgow, West Lothian

The Avon Aqueduct: Cheekily included in our blog on bridges, but definitely worth seeing, the Avon Aqueduct is a navigable aqueduct on the Union Canal and lies just 21 miles from the heart of Stirling, in Linlithgow, West Lothian. It is the second longest and tallest aqueduct in Britain, built after an original design by Thomas Telford himself. There are several ways to get great views of and from the Aqueduct. Park near Linlithgow Canal Basin, or take a train from Stirling (Linlithgow station is just a minute’s walk from the canal), before joining the towpath on foot, heading west. Alternatively, enjoy one of the Canal Centre’s Aqueduct Cruises, leaving at 2pm on weekends. The cruise stops on the aqueduct for passengers to disembark and marvel at the views and the silence. Perhaps not for those with vertigo, but the canal volunteers do serve coffee and biscuits on board to calm even the most frayed nerves. Lastly, those who are really not keen on heights can get a true sense of the aqueduct’s size from beneath it, by taking the secluded and beautiful riverside walk around Muiravonside Country Park. Again, this country park is a great day trip in itself, especially if you are travelling with kids.

For those who want to explore Scotland’s bridges further afield, see:

Photo Credits:

  • Stirling Bridge: by David Meisner at en.wikipedia [Public domain], from Wikimedia Commons
  • The Forth  Road Bridge: by Simon Johnston [CC-BY-SA-2.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
  • Avon Aqueduct: by R Pollack, via Wikimedia Commons.

 

 

 

 

Scotland: As Seen on Screen

Doune Castle, near Stirling, favoured film location for the Pythons and many more

Doune Castle, near Stirling, favoured film location for the Pythons and many more

Did you know that one in five overseas visitors to the UK are inspired to visit by images they have seen on film and tv? Well, if you love film and tv, you’ll love Scotland. With dramatic scenery, unspoilt wilderness, and fantastic architecture, Scotland is fast becoming the preferred choice for movie-makers looking for just the right location. In this week’s blog, we’re taking a look at just a few famous ‘as seen on screen’ locations within easy reach of Stirling (there are loads more). So why not book up your stay in Stirling, bring your favourite DVDs, then go and visit the film location? The name for this new kind of holiday? Set-jetting. Bring on the popcorn.

Doune Castle: Python and Game of Thrones: In 1974, the Monty Python Team headed to Doune Castle (http://tinyurl.com/q5kh7ol) just eight miles outside of Stirling, to film ‘Monty Python and the Holy Grail’. The stunning 14th-century castle by the River Teith made the perfect backdrop to the famous parody of King Arthur’s quest to find the Holy Grail. The many different castles throughout the movie are, in fact, mostly Doune Castle taken from contrasting angles, and both the exterior and interior were used to add authenticity to the comic storyline. But the castle’s fame hasn’t ended there: recently, Doune Castle has been used as the set for ‘Winterfell’ in the cult TV series ‘Game of Thrones’, an adaptation of the ‘A Song of Ice and Fire’ series of novels by George RR Martin. Notably, the castle was used for the exterior shots and the great feast scenes in the series’ pilot episode.

Glasgow's George Square transformed for the film World War Z

Glasgow’s George Square transformed for the film World War Z

Glasgow: World War Z and Cloud Atlas: The 2013 zombie movie ‘World War Z’ starring Brad Pitt cast a whole new light on Glasgow city centre. Watch the terrifying opening sequence of this film again, when a traffic jam turns into mass panic. That’s not Philadelphia you’re looking at, where the story is set: it’s Glasgow’s George Square. You’ll spot many of Glasgow’s infamously steep side streets used in the ‘World War Z’ crowd scenes to incredible effect. Another look at the movie ‘Cloud Atlas’ starring Halle Berry reveals that the steep streets of Glasgow around Blythswood Square and Montrose Street were again a lure for film-makers – this time replicating the streets of San Francisco in the 1970s. For information on visiting Glasgow: http://www.visit-glasgow.info/

Stirling, Loch Lomond, Trossachs and Clyde Valley: Outlander: In autumn 2013, Doune Castle was again the location of choice as filming began for new American TV sci-fi series ‘Outlander’, which tells the story of time-travelling couple Claire and James Fraser. More recently, the series producers have also spent time filming on the University of Stirling’s beautiful campus, based around the estate’s 18th-century Airthrey Castle. Numerous locations throughout Scotland, including Strathspey and Badenoch have also been used, with film-makers shooting period scenes at Newtonmore’s Highland Folk Museum. The museum includes an authentic 18th-century turf house township, pretty much a ready-made film set in the eyes of location scouts. Due for release on American TV in autumn this year, it may be some time before Outlander hits our screens for some ‘Stirling-spotting’ but it’s definitely one to add to the set-jetting list. For information on visiting Stirling Uni Campus: http://www.stir.ac.uk/ and Newtonmore Highland Folk Museum: http://www.highlandfolk.com/newtonmore.php

Glencoe, atmospheric setting for the Bond film 'Skyfall'

Glencoe, atmospheric setting for the Bond film ‘Skyfall’

Further afield: Glencoe is just two hours’ stunning drive from Stirling city centre – well within the reaches of a day trip and quite possibly a must-see for James Bond fans. Much of the 2012 Bond hit ‘Skyfall’ was filmed in the Glencoe area, in the shadow of Buachaille Etive Mor. This brooding landscape was perfect for possibly the most atmospheric Bond film yet and really does merit a visit, whatever the weather. In fact, a grey sky just adds to the drama. See: http://www.visitscotland.com/info/towns-villages/glencoe-p236561

Iconic scene spots: Everyone remembers that slow motion scene in ‘Chariots of Fire’ when the athletes train on a deserted beach to the haunting film score by Vangelis. Get yourself to the West Sands on St Andrews beach for your own re-enactment, an easy day trip from Stirling and a great picnic location too. Not quite as romantic, but just as memorable, is Ewan Macgregor’s headlong sprint down Princes Street in the film of Irvine Welsh’s gritty novel ‘Trainspotting’. Jump on a train from Stirling to Waverley, climb the steps out of the station and turn left – you’ll be there in 40 minutes. If you’re travelling to Edinburgh by car, you might also want to consider seeing Rosslyn Chapel, whose tourist numbers have soared since it appeared in Dan Brown’s ‘The Da Vinci Code’. Whether you’re a film buff or not, this beautiful chapel is well worth a visit: http://www.rosslynchapel.org.uk/

These are just a few film locations around Scotland – there are so many more to choose from. For more inspiration on planning your Scottish ‘set-jetting’ holiday, see: http://www.visitscotland.com/about/arts-culture/films/locations

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The Clackmannanshire Tower Trail

Parliament walk leading to Alloa Tower

Parliament walk leading to Alloa Tower

Sometimes it’s enlightening to choose just one aspect of an area, one striking feature, and explore it from that angle. This week, we’re getting a different slant on Stirlingshire by exploring it through towers: specifically, the Clackmannanshire Tower Trail.

The origins of the towers: Bordering Fife, Perth & Kinross and Stirling, Clackmannanshire has four medieval towers. Built in the 14th to 15th centuries, these handsome buildings have their origins in earlier timber defensive constructions. However, the newer, stone constructions were created in less turbulent times, built by aristocratic families who needed both to be near the Royal Court in Stirling, and to display their status. The heyday of the tower was short-lived: by the 16th century, ‘height’ was less in vogue, with the wealthy favouring the larger footprint of stately homes, the like of which we see today. Happily, relative rarity makes the medieval towers an even more appealing focus for sightseeing.

Alloa Tower: Alloa Tower was home to the Erskine family, Earls of Mar, from the late 1300s until 1800, in which year the building was destroyed by fire. Restored to its 1712 appearance by the Alloa Tower Building Preservation Trust, the building was reopened by the Queen in 1997. It has a fascinating history, an extensive collection of original portraits, and is open daily Good Friday–31st October 1pm to 5pm. See www.clacksweb.org.uk and www.nts.org.uk

Castle Campbell Tower, Dollar Glen

Castle Campbell Tower, Dollar Glen

Castle Campbell Tower: Castle Campbell in Dollar Glen was a lowland home of the Campbell family of Argyll until 1654. Around 1466, the tower building was extended by the first Earl of Argyll to include a great hall and family accommodation, with an east range, stair turret, defensive gateway and enclosing wall added around 1600. Turbulent years followed, and the building suffered. The estate was sold in 1805, and has been partially restored by Historic Scotland. Opening times: 1st April–30 Sep daily 9.30–5.30. 1st October–31st March Saturday to Wednesdays 9.30–4.30. See www.clacksweb.org.uk and www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

Clackmannan Tower, on King's Seat Hill

Clackmannan Tower, on King’s Seat Hill

Clackmannan Tower: Kings’ Seat Hill, overlooking the Forth Valley, is home to Clackmannan Tower, the likely site of a royal residence dating as far back as the 11th century. In 1359, David II granted Clackmannan to Robert the Bruce, and construction began, with additions in the 15th and late 16th centuries. Despite a fascinating history which included an unofficial ‘knighting’ of Robert Burns, the Bruce family abandoned the tower and its accompanying house in 1841. Under the guardianship of Historic Scotland extensive repairs have begun – full entry access is by special arrangement and Doors Open Days in September. See www.clacksweb.org.uk and www.historic-scotland.gov.uk

Sauchie Tower, open during 'Doors Open days' In September

Sauchie Tower, open during ‘Doors Open Days’ In September

Sauchie Tower: In 1321, King Robert Bruce granted the lands of Sauchie to the Sherriff of Clackmannan, Henri de Annand. In 1431, descendant Mary de Annand married Sir James Schaw, who soon began work on Sauchie Tower. A courtyard, great hall and ovens were later added, and defences improved in 1490. An additional house, built in 1631, became the main family residence. By 1710, the tower was used only for dancing and theatre and was in grave disrepair by the 1800s. Clackmannanshire Heritage Trust with the Friends of Sauchie Tower have undertaken to restore it, the accompanying house, and environs. Full entry access is by special arrangement and Doors Open Days in September. For information, contact Clackmannanshire Council Museum and Heritage Service (tel: 01259 216913).

For full information on all of these, how to gain entry to them, and how best to enjoy them on ‘non-entry days’ see http://www.clacksweb.org.uk/visiting/towertrail/ where you will find more info, histories, and full contact details.

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